Composting
Why Compost?
Composting
- Conserves Water and Protects the Environment
- Promotes water conservation by increasing the water holding capacity of your soil.
- Improves structure of soil, prevents runoff and leaching of fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides into rivers and groundwater. Healthy Gardens and Lawns
- Provides valuable nutrients and minerals to your soil and plants.
- Protects plants from disease by keeping them healthy and providing habitat for beneficial soil organisms.
- Promotes healthy, deep-rooted plants that are resistant to disease, pests and drought.
- Reduces thatching, aeration and fungal problems in lawns.
- Prevents Waste
- Recycles valuable nutrients to your soil and plants and reduces the need to buy fertilizers.
Up to 35% of all household garbage can be composted, reducing the need for landfills and saving money on your garbage bills as well.
www.resourceoregon.org
What is Composting?
According to The Greater Avalon Regional Waste Management Committee:
Composting is "a natural process by which naturally occurring micro organisms such as bacteria and fungi convert organic material (food scraps and peelings coffee grounds, egg shells, paper towels etc.) into a soil-like material called compost [and is] used to enrich soil."
The Virginia Department of Health defines composting as "the process in which solid organic materials are decomposed in the presence of oxygen through the action of bacteria and other microorganisms."
The Department of Environmental Quality defines composting as the "use of microbes to break down organic matter into a useful product."
Central Oregon's own provider of sustainable solutions says that "Composting is a way of harnessing the natural process of decomposition. In nature, all living things will eventually decompose, but composting can speed up the process to a few weeks [sic] or months. The result is a dark, nutrient rich, crumbly substance that benefits gardens and landscapes."* www.avalonwaste.com/glossary.htm
* www.biosolids.state.va.us/research.htm
* www.deq.state.or.us/wmc/solwaste/cwrc/glossary/glossary1.html
* www.resourceoregon.org/homecomposting01.html
What should and shouldn’t I put in my compost?
Paying attention to what you put into your compost is very important. Here's a list of what you CAN put in your compost:
Alfalfa meal and hay, grass clippings, manure, kelp meal, seaweed, legume plants, eggshells, vegetable scraps, sour milk, apple or winery pomace, blood meal, wool, human hair, coffee grounds (and used filters), leaves, pine needles, cornstalks, sawdust, wood shavings, shredded newspaper, rice, sod, soil, rotted wood, and garden trimmings.
This is just a brief list of the many things that can be composted. Also, as a warning, pine needles are very slow to break down if you put them into a compost pile.
Here's a list of what you SHOULD NOT put into a compost pile:
Diseased plants, weeds with seeds or weeds that can still sprout, sewage, pet feces, used kitty litter, non-biodegradable items, pressure treated wood, toxic chemicals, charcoal briquettes, coal, coal dust, coal ashes, fats, oils, grease, meat scraps, bones, and cheese.
Diseased plants and weeds are discouraged because they can regenerate wherever you use your compost. However, some sources suggest that you can put weeds into the compost if they are completely dry and dead, and if your compost is hot enough to kill the seeds. Other kitchen scraps like meats, fats, oils, and cheeses are discouraged because they take longer to break down and deplete the oxygen content of you compost, which microorganisms need to survive. They can also cause odor and pest problems.
* The Rodale Book of Composting, Deborah L. Martin and Grace Gershuny, eds. 1992. Rodale Press: Emmaus, PE.* Let it Rot!, Stu Campbell. 1998. Storey Books: Pownal, VE.
* Secrets for Great Soil, Elizabeth Stell. 1998. Storey Books: Pownal, VE.
What is the best ratio of wet and dry ingredients?
The best ratio of wet (greens) and dry (browns) ingredients are just as critical as your composts moisture and air content. Greens are generally high in nitrogen and provide moisture and protein for microorganisms in your compost. Browns are higher in carbon and provide a good energy source for microorganisms as well as good aeration of the compost. It is a good idea to moisten browns before putting them in the compost.
Cornell University's composting web site suggests a Carbon/Nitrogen ratio of 30/1 (by weight) when initially starting a compost pile. Finished compost is usually close to the C/N ratio of 10/1.*compost.css.cornell.edu/composting_homepage.html
How do I maintain and take care of my compost?
First, you should make sure to put the right ingredients into your compost. Second, you want to make sure that the compost has an adequate amount of moisture, especially in a dry climate like Central Oregon. Remember, however, that too much moisture can be bad for microorganisms in your compost and create an anaerobic (without oxygen) stinky mass! In order for microorganisms to survive they require a moisture content no lower than 35-40% and no higher than 55-60%, or about as moist as a wrung out sponge.
Also be sure to turn your compost regularly (about once a week) to create oxygen in the mix for microorganisms. You can wet your pile, when needed, as you turn it.You'll know your compost pile is decomposing when it starts to heat up, reflecting the work of the microorganisms breaking down the debris. Larger, dry "brown" items like straw are also important in aerating compost, but make sure you moisten them before adding them to the pile.
*compost.css.cornell.edu/composting_homepage.html
*vegweb.com/composting
How do I keep my compost contained?
There are several different containing devices for a compost pile, each unique to its use and location. The book Secrets to Great Soil by Elizabeth Stell at the Deschutes library has several models of compost "containers" and how to build them. Also, the Mastercomposter web site has several models and instructions at www.mastercomposter.com/equip/buildbin.html
There are compost bins that can be purchased locally or ordered on line as well. Simply looking up "compost bins" with a search engine will turn up several compost bin companies. Here's a list of places in Central Oregon to get compost bins:
Deschutes Recycling, LLC 388-1910
High Country Disposal 548-4984
Big R Store, 548-4095
Another kind of composting simply involves burying kitchen scraps in trenches in your garden. This decreases the risk of it smelling, and the material will eventually decompose in the soil. *compost.css.cornell.edu/composting_homepage.html
*vegweb.com/composting
How do I prevent my compost from smelling and prevent animals from disturbing it?
One of the best ways to prevent your compost from smelling and attracting animals in the first place is to make sure you have a good mix of wet and dry ingredients. If your compost can be smelled around the block it’s bound to attract critters and annoy neighbors. It probably doesn’t have enough dry ingredients and might be too moist. Too much moisture can eliminate the oxygen in your pile, slowing down the decomposition process and encouraging anaerobic microorganisms to thrive and increase the stench!
If worse comes to worst and neither the container nor the composition of the compost will get rid of the stench or the critters, you can bury kitchen wastes in the garden or try using worms with an indoor compost. Check out our worm composting section. *http://compost.css.cornell.edu/composting_homepage.html
*http://vegweb.com/composting
How do I know when the composted material is ready to use?
Deciding when to use your compost material is very subjective. It depends on how you want to use the material and your individual preference. Generally, compost is finished when it is a dark brown almost black color, with little remnants of the original materials. If you smell it, it should smell like soil. However, it’s okay to use in an outdoor garden when there are still pieces of material that haven’t broken down completely, they will just decompose in the soil. For potted plants you might want to use a fine, well decomposed material, especially for young plants. *http://vegweb.com/composting
What are some uses for finished compost material?
You may use compost for several things. Some people use it as an amendment to the soil in the spring before planting, mixing the finished product into the plant beds. Others simply bury their kitchen scraps in trenches in the garden, or leave them underneath the plants as a top dressing (this can cause odor and pest problems). Finished compost can be used as a mulch around the base of garden and potted plants to help prevent erosion, contain moisture by shielding soil from the sun, and to eventually break down and add nutrients to the soil. You can make "compost tea" by mixing finished compost with an equal amount of water and letting it sit for a while. This tea can be used as a nutrient boost for ailing houseplants or other plants. Dilute it if you want to use it on seedlings and young plants.
*vegweb.com/composting
* Let It Rot!, Stu Campbell. 1998. Storey Books: Pownal, VE.
Should I only compost during warmer times of the year?
It is best to start a compost pile during warmer times of the year, however a compost pile will go dormant over the winter. This does not cause any harm; your compost will simply rejuvenate when the weather gets warmer. If you keep the compost contained under cover, you can have an active compost through the winter. You can continue to add material to it during the winter, just understand that the decomposition process will be much slower. *vegweb.com/composting
How hot should my compost be?
It is a common misunderstanding that compost piles must be hot to work effectively. This is not necessarily the case. Proper decomposition can occur as low as 50 degrees. However, the hotter your compost is, the faster material will decompose. It is suggested to keep the temperature within the pile between 90 and 140 degrees. Any higher than 140 degrees will slow down the most effective organisms in the pile.
*http://www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp
How do I speed up the decomposition process?
- The following is a list of suggestions to make your compost decompose faster:
- Increasing the surface area will speed up the process by allowing microorganisms to digest more material, multiply quickly, and generate more heat.
- Earthworms can break down larger materials for fungi and bacteria to digest, just make sure it doesn't get hotter than 70 degrees.
- Proper aeration and turning of the pile allows oxygen that is used up by microorganisms to be replenished. It also puts new material into contact with microbes.
- Be sure to turn your pile frequently.
- Make sure your pile's moisture content is between 40-60 percent.
- Check to see if your compost pile has a temperature between 90 and 140 degrees (32-60 C), this is an ideal temperature for microorganisms to do their work.
*www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp
Should I use worms in my compost?
Worm composting (vermicomposting) is a good alternative to outdoor composting because worms break down material faster and thrive between the temperatures of 50-70 degrees. Their processing of foods create worm 'castings' which are great for gardens and potted plants. Worm composting is also great for people who don't have a backyard!
Here are some good resources for information on worm composting:
The Worm Book by Loren Nancarrow & Janet Hogan Taylor
Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Applehof
www.cityfarmer.org/wormcomp61.html
http://www.wormwoman.com - Mary Applehof's web site!
reSource (388-3638) has informative handouts about worm composting and worm bins, and you can check out there web site:
www.resourceoregon.org
www.mastercomposter.com/worm/wormcomp.html
compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/faq.html
compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/basics.html
How do I start a worm compost?
Starting a worm compost (vermicompost) is a very complicated process with several steps. Rather than put all the steps on this web site, here are some other worm composting sources to refer to:
The Worm Book by Loren Nancarrow & Janet Hogan Taylor
Worms Eat My Garbage by Mary Applehof
www.wormwoman.com – Mary Applehof’s web site!
http://www.cityfarmer.org/wormcomp61.html
ReSource (388-3638) has handouts about worm composting and worm bins, and vermicomposting information on their web site, www.resourceoregon.org
http://www.mastercomposter.com/worm/wormcomp.html
http://compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/steps.html
What other options do I have for recycling organic waste at home?
If you have a lawn you can choose to leave the clippings on the lawn and allow them to naturally decompose. Also, check out our worm composting section for using worm bins indoors to decompose kitchen scraps. Or another kind of composting simply involves burying kitchen scraps in trenches or beds of your garden. This decreases the risk of it smelling, and the material will eventually decompose in the soil. You can also recycle leaf droppings as valuable mulch for other garden plants, especially during the winter.
*http://www.mastercomposter.com/worm/wormcomp.html
Where can I take organic materials to be composted if I don’t want to compost at home?
Sunriver has a composting project in operation. Please call Kelly Walker at (541) 593-1522 for more information about the Sunriver composting project. The Northwest, Southwest, and Negus Transfer Stations and Knott Landfill also take yard wastes for a small fee. The finished compost from these stations is sold at Deschutes Recycling near the Knott Landfill.
If you generate large amounts of composting material and hate to see it thrown out, you may want to consider posting your goodies on oregonswap.com
For more information about composting, please visit:
http://www.juniperandsage.com/garden/chap2.htm
How do I start composting in my backyard?
Composting is a very complicated process and can involve many steps that could take up an entire web site! So here are some other sources to seek out for starting your own compost:
vegweb.com/composting http://compost.css.cornell.edu/composting_homepage.html
www.howtocompost.org
www.compost.org
www.resourceoregon.org has several links to composting sites
The following books on composting are available at the Deschutes County Library:
The Rodale Book of Composting by Rodale Press
Let It Rot! by Stu Campbell
Secrets for Great Soil by Elizabeth Stell
Backyard Composting by Harmonious Technologies
Xeriscape Handbook by Gayle WeinsteinDeschutes Recycling has several brochures and information about composting for the public to take.
